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Kuala Lumpur Overview
During the last two decades, Kuala Lumpur (or "KL" for short) has experienced tremendous changes. On my first visit back in 1990, the capital of Malaysia was not yet an economic or technological powerhouse; the city was easy to travel around and there were not too many high-rises. But strong Asian economic development since the early 1990's has given this 150-year-old city a new look and a new vibe with its tall skyscrapers, luxurious hotels and expansive shopping malls. The latter, in particular, enjoy an advantage over Asian counterparts like Singapore and Hong Kong because prices are phenomenal -- this is a great place when shopping for quality at a massive discount.
Credit for Kuala Lumpur's burgeoning reputation as a popular Asian city can be given first to the movie "Entrapment;" the sexy thriller starring Catherine Zeta-Jones and Sean Connery was partly filmed at the city's Petronas Towers (which, before the turn of this century, had stolen the title of "world's tallest building" from Chicago's Sears Tower). Although the Petronas Twin Towers are not the tallest in the world anymore, they are probably the most recognizable skyscrapers in Asia.
Malaysia is an ethnically, racially and culturally diverse nation. The majority of inhabitants are either Malays or Chinese with the rest consisting of Indians and Arabs. There are several religions, Islam being the largest.
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Other Asia Cruise Ports:
Bangkok (Laem Chabang) • Cochin • Da Nang • Hanoi • Hiroshima • Ho Chi Minh City • Hong Kong • Kuala Lumpur • Langkawi • Mumbai • Nagasaki • Osaka • Saipan • Singapore
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Language
Although English is widely used in Malaysia, Malay is the official language. However, there are several local newspapers, such as The New Straits Times, that are available in English.
Currency & Best Way to Get Money
The Malaysian Ringgit is approximately valued at RM3.80 to $1 U.S. Be sure to check www.xe.com for the most up-to-date conversation rates. Most major credit cards, such as American Express, Master Card and Visa are accepted, as are traveler's checks. ATM's can be found easily at major establishments, such as shopping centers. There are surcharges for using ATM's. Banks are normally open from 9:30 a.m. until 3:00 p.m. from Monday to Friday and 9:30 until 11:30 a.m. on Saturdays.
Where You're Docked
Cruise ships dock at Port Klang, which is 45 kilometers (around 90 minutes) southwest from Kuala Lumpur. Port Klang is first and foremost a major cargo port, but it also houses a modern cruise terminal and cruise ship pier owned by Star Cruises (parent company of Norwegian Cruise Lines). As a matter of fact, Star Cruises' headquarters are located at the terminal.
Hanging Around
Most of the sightseeing tours from Port Klang head to Kuala Lumpur. If you'll be going off on your own away from the port, a taxi or car service is always required. The port has very limited last-minute shopping facilities. However, if you are into golf, try the Port Klang Golf Resort, which is located less than a mile south from the Star Cruises terminal.
Getting Around
Depending on traffic, it takes a little more than an hour to get from Port Klang to Kuala Lumpur; expect longer times during rush hours. In Kuala Lumpur, like any fast growing city, the traffic situation can be painful.
Mass transit in Kuala Lumpur is less developed than in, for instance, Singapore or Hong Kong. However, there is an extensive rail network to suburbs of the city. The modern KL Sentral is the main railway station. Inside the city, there is a new monorail that operates through the major parts of the city and offers a good overview of Kuala Lumpur.
Nevertheless, there are a lot of taxis available -- and with bargain fares. For the first 2 kilometers the fare is RM2. The taxis are always required to use the meter. If booking a longer trip outside the city, limousine services offer very competitive fares in addition to a higher quality of car than normal taxis.
Watch Out For
While Kuala Lumpur boasts numerous gardens and lush greenery, the air can be quite hazy, occasionally almost dangerously so for people with breathing problems (you may recall news reports in recent years of seasonal fires in Indonesia spreading smoke this way). Another caveat: While the city has numerous attractions and shopping centers, many are spread rather far apart (a taxi can be the most efficient way to get around).
Don't Miss
 Start with its vantage points to get a good overview. The aforementioned Petronas Twin Towers feature an extraordinary Skybridge between the twin buildings at the height of 192 feet. Access to the bridge is limited to certain hours of the day, so if you miss it, head over to the Kuala Lumpur Tower (called Menara Kuala Lumpur). At the height of 1,380 feet, visitors can enjoy truly superb views of the city, except during those hazy days. Kuala Lumpur Tower is open from 10:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
If you're not daunted to climb 272 steps (yep, we counted them), Batu Caves is an awesome limestone cave. Founded by American naturalist William Hornaday in 1878, Batu Caves has become a popular spot for Hindu pilgrimages. A wild population of monkeys causes an added challenge on the steep climb, as they are very aggressive while seeking something to eat. Batu Caves is located 8 miles north of the city center and it's open daily from 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.
Editor's Note: Batu Caves is featured on most of the city tours run by cruise lines.
Despite the rapid pace of building in the past few years, Kuala Lumpur is still replete with historic buildings offering a sleepier ambience. Selangor Club, representing the city's colonial era and located in Jalan Raja (the city's central area), is one of the most iconic of historic places in Kuala Lumpur -- it also has a flagpole with a record height (said to be the tallest in the world). With its lush gardens, King's Palace (Istana Negara) is a regular photo stop during sightseeing trips, though it's not open to the public.
Kuala Lumpur is a paradise for shoppers. With a very international and bustling atmosphere, Bukit Bintang is one of the busiest areas for shopping, dining and entertainment; think of it as Kuala Lumpur's version of New York's Fifth Avenue. There are numerous shopping malls from Starhill Gallery to Piccolo Galleria, Sungei Wang Plaza and Lot 10. These are great places to shop for affordable clothing, among other things. This is also a neighborhood with luxury hotels like the JW Marriott and Ritz-Carlton (both have great restaurants). If you're looking for local food, there are food hawkers in Jalan Bukit Bintang.
Been There, Done That
An hour's bus ride from Kuala Lumpur is the mountain retreat of Genting Highlands, one of the most popular resorts in Malaysia. Located at 6,500 feet above sea level, Genting Highlands is a bit like Las Vegas -- with an amusement park, the largest show restaurant in the country (often with some of the most famous entertainers in Southeast Asia), and the only place to legally gamble in Malaysia. On top of that, there are several hotels, a water park and golf courses.
Editor's Note: Genting Highlands is owned by the parent company of Star Cruises.
Lunching
Kuala Lumpur's dining scene offers something for everyone, ranging from Western fast food chains like McDonald's, KFC and Starbucks (and, yes, Hard Rock Cafe, too) to ethnic specialties. The majority, naturally, feature the cuisines of Asia. While Malaysia is a Muslim nation, alcohol is available in most of the restaurants.
Shopping centers, such as Suria KLCC underneath the Petronas Towers, feature food courts for a quick bite.
Hawker food is quick and affordable. The best areas for hawker food are places like Jalan Imbi and Jalan Barat as well as Chinatown. Everyone probably knows what satay means (marinated and grilled meat), but other popular options include Hokkien mee (noodle soup with prawns, ribs, bean sprouts and chili paste) or Ikan bakar (grilled fish), just to name a few.
Hotels typically offer good restaurants in Kuala Lumpur. Look for fusion food at Senses at Kuala Lumpur Hilton or Lafite Restaurant at Shangri-La Hotel for French dining.
Starhill Shopping Centre in Bukit Bintang (close to Ritz-Carlton and J.W. Marriott Hotels) features an extensive selection of good restaurants. Those serving lunch include Fisherman's Cove, Koryo-on (Korean), MyThai (Thai), and Pask Luk Chiu Chow serving Chiu Chow-style Chinese cuisine.
Shore Excursions
Highlights of Kuala Lumpur, a cruise line shore excursion that starts from Port Klang, includes visits to the National Museum and all the photo opportunities along the way, including Selangor Club, Jamek Mosque, (the oldest mosque in KL), Blue Mosque (the largest mosque in Southeast Asia, accommodating up to 16,000 people), National Monument (commemorates Malaysia's heroes of World War II), and King's Palace (Istana Negara).
Accommodations
Big Splurge: If you're looking for the best location, choose the Mandarin Oriental, which is perhaps the best-rated hotel in town. In Kuala Lumpur, high quality does not necessarily mean high room rates, which is the case in most of the other top cities in Asia, so it's a great place to go deluxe! For instance, a random price check on Expedia gives a room rate for one night starting from $149 U.S. in February. In addition to its high service levels, the Mandarin Oriental's plus is its location just beneath the Petronas Twin Towers, with access to the KLCC Suria shopping center.
Best for Families: Though it's located 30 minutes outside from the city center, Sunway Lagoon is like a Malaysian version of a highly themed Las Vegas hotel. With an artificial water park, ample number of bars and restaurants, and even specially themed rooms (such as the Wild West), Sunway Lagoon is a family-friendly resort hotel. Star Cruises even features this resort on their tour program.
Staying in Touch
GSM telephones work in Malaysia, but there is no Internet cafe at the Port Klang terminal.
For More Information
On the Web: www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my
Cruise Critic Message Boards: Asia
Independent Traveler: Asia Exchange
--by Teijo Niemela, who contributes to Cruise Critic from Helsinki. He is also publisher and editor of Cruise Business Review, a business-to-business industry magazine.
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